Silver clay? What the hell is that?

Silver clay, precious metal clay, art metal clay, and art clay silver are all different terms and makes of "clay" that may be magically turned into silver and gold.

These modern metal clays were introduced to the North American market in the 90's. Jewellery enthusiasts can now mold and form expensive metal as simply as clay.

Jewellery making naturally is as old as time. The difference these days is that you now don't have to hammer or cast your metal to make jewelry if you don't need to. Silver clay now makes it feasible to make real metal forms without these standard techniques.

Here is how it functions. Silver and gold metal clays are composed of fine metal particles suspended in an organic binder. This binder enables you to mold and shape the clay as you would potter's clay. After you are happy with the form, you let your project dry for a minimum of twenty-four hours ( or even more ). You then fire it in a kiln or by employing a hand torch. The binder burns away, leaving the fused metal behind in the shape you formed it.

Before you grab a pile of silver clay and go at it though, you'll want to keep a few guidelines in mind. Silver clay is not cheap, so you do not want to waste it.

Silver Clay Tips

Here are a number of tips for working with silver clay :

*Metal clays shrink 10-30% when fired. Be sure to check your package for shrinkage levels especially if you're making rings or other objects that must be actual fits.

*Not all metal clays can be hand torch fired. If you won't be using a kiln be sure to check that your brand of silver clay is "low fire".

*Only small pieces should be torch fired. Pieces bigger than 25g should be kiln fired.

*Silver clay isn't cheap. The gold version especially is terribly costly. Be certain to shop thoroughly and follow instructions punctiliously so you don't burn your money fruitlessly.

*Metal Clay simply takes on impressions of other objects ( and fingerprints too ). Try experimenting with different textures and objects to make imprints onto the wet clay.

*Gemstones that can withstand the heat of firing can be set into the wet clay.

*Be certain to let your metal clay dry fully before firing. Firing damp clay won't work and you will not be a content camper.

*Metal clays are sticky to touch so be certain to coat everything with a thin film of olive oil or other release agent. This suggests coat your hands, your tools, and work surface. Just a hint of oil will do, so don't overdo it.

*You can improve drying time by placing your piece in a low heat oven. ( 150-200 degrees fahrenheit ). Pieces small than your palm typically take approximately twenty-four hours to entirely dry and toughen without the oven treatment.

*Sand your dried and toughened piece before firing. If you do not like fingerprints, you will not be in a position to remove them after firing.

*Metal clay is soluble and can be softened with water. Keep a small bowl of water or a spritzer handy while you work. If it starts to dry out while working, you are able to add a bit of water to moisten it.

*Buying smaller packages is much better than larger because you will not have to worry about the entire block drying out. The price difference is negligible, and you'll waste extra cash by needing to through out old dried out clay.

*You can extend the working time of your metal clay by adding a drop or 2 of glycerin ( available at chemists ) to your newly opened package of silver clay. To use : make a depression with your thumb in the clay, and add a drop or two of glycerin. Fold the clay a couple of times to mix in the glycerin, then spritz with water. Cover in plastic wrap and let sit so the clay can soak up the glycerin. When you work with the clay the next day, use as normal. This trick will extend the working time, but also extends the drying time mandatory before firing.

*If you see a blackish mould, do not be concerned. This will burn away when firing. This mildew occurs when you use regular tap water to moisten the clay.

*Playing cards make great "spacers" when rolling out clay to an even thickness. Just stack cards on both sides of the clay, then use your roller to roll out the clay between the cards.

*To store metal clay between uses, be certain to spritz with water and wrap it well with plastic wrap.

*different clays have different firing temperatures so be sure to match your firing temperature to your clay type.

*Once fired, you need to brush and burnish it to get a great shine. First brush well with a stiff brush to loosen any ash or residue, then wash with water. Then you'll want to burnish the metal to compress it, make it smoother, and shinier. Use a burnishing tool made from agate or metal for this. The tool has a smooth face and pointy tip for burnishing the more detailed areas.

*You can dunk the piece in water after firing to cool down it swiftly.

*Firing you clay too shortly, at too low a temperature, or for too short a time may cause your project to break. Firing for too long may melt some of the detail.

Now you have some silver clay tenets, I bet you are psyched. You need to work with this inventive material now! What will you make first?

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